Behind the bar

Brandy Martignago on being a steward, not a gatekeeper

Behind The Bar is our regular series where we pick the brains of our favourite hospitality luminaries on the latest trends shaping the bar scene.

Thurman WiseApril 3, 2024

We chatted with Brandon 'Brandy' Martignago, the co-founder of Harbour City Hospitality, the team responsible for Dulcie's Kings Cross and The Emerald Room.

His unyielding advocacy for Australian spirits landed him the role of judge on the panel for the Australian Distilled Spirits Awards. He is also a big believer in transformative experiences, which is why he consistently envisions spaces that don't just serve but transport their guests.

What got you behind the bar?

I worked in restaurants in my first jobs and ended up behind the bar because I was quick, had good chat and (when I was in pubs) could stand my ground with difficult customers. It’s the people that keep me in hospitality. Seeing people enjoy a new venue, drink or enjoy the company of others, sounds cliche, but it’s the best part.

Why are you so passionate about Australian Spirits?

There’s something about seeing the provenance of where things come from; in food, chefs can go foraging or they know where their meat, fish and fresh produce is coming from. In spirits, that’s quite new.

We are able to see local distillers celebrate their regions through their products. From South Australian distillers using grape-based spirits from their wine regions to Tassie water in whiskey, and even how regional climate is directly related to aged expressions—it’s incredibly local. I get to meet the makers directly and see their passion, and the sweat that goes into what they make.

There’s also just the arrogance of seeing an international brand people have been conditioned to think is superior, only for them to be blown away by a local variant. That makes me proud.

What's exciting you about the current hospitality landscape?

Since COVID-19 I think the industry is open to new trends, service styles and products that are less “legacy” and more a confluence of where we are and who we are serving. People are tired of being told what is good, they want to go on a journey with a ‘spiritual Sherpa’. We are the custodians of a long lineage of food and beverage stewards, we’re not gate keepers or dictators. I also think more young people are being listened to and valued more, and that’s very cool.

The Emerald Room, Brandy Martignago

What's interesting you most about the future?

The world has changed so much in the relatively short time since I started in hospitality. There’s less rigidity; women are being recognised and elevated more. The boys club and toxicity of that world is dissipating and that’s allowing for new ideas.

I’m also loving the attention to experience that venues are delivering to customers. Patrons are discerning and so the quality and offering of venues has become so important, and I think people are nailing that.

Oftentimes consumers are too intimidated to make a cocktail from a bar's menu at home. Could you share a recipe that our readers could make at home?

Well, they should follow my YouTube channel @brandymakesdrinks! A drink at home that everyone should make is a 20th Century. I like dry classics so this is my recipe: